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Colonial Pantry: Classic breakfast in Edmonds | Arts & Appetite

 

March 22, 2019



I love breakfast. Breakfast for lunch, breakfaster for dinner. And of course, breakfast for breakfast.

We usually make a big breakfast on the weekends – I prepare anything with eggs, while my husband is an expert waffle-maker. However, this past Saturday we wanted the big breakfast without the effort and remembered that a friend had recommended the Colonial Pantry in Firdale Village.

As soon as we walked to the front door and saw the specials board (bone-in ham and eggs, pork chops and eggs, corn beef hash and eggs, and a Western omelet with sausage), we knew we were going to get a good, traditional American breakfast.

The menu, which includes breakfast and lunch, included all of the classics – steak and eggs, biscuits and gravy, pancakes or waffles, and a remarkable array of omelets.

Perhaps even more remarkable was the line that said that all omelets are made with four eggs (yes, that’s a 4) and all traditional breakfasts are served with three eggs.

The restaurant itself has booths for two-and four-tops (I love a booth for two), counter seating, and tables, and on a Saturday morning at 11 a.m., every table was full except for one. We were surrounded by a cross-section of diners, from a family of five – sitting together in a booth with plates of blueberry pancakes and strawberry waffles in front of the kids—to several couples, young and old, and a few folks reading the newspaper.

(There is a rack at the front door; they leave the day’s paper for anyone to read.)

We were greeted with a friendly hello at the door and an offer to take any table we’d like. The menus appeared within seconds, with another kind greeting from our server and quick delivery of cups of coffee so we could choose from every option you would want at breakfast.

The décor is warm and exactly what you would expect from a Colonial Pantry: beadboard wainscoting, wooden shelves with pretty plates, other pottery, and some dried flowers, as well as paintings of landscapes and a couple of very cute dogs.

Several people checked on us throughout our meal, and we chatted about all that is wonderful about a big breakfast on the weekend.

The pecan waffle ($6.99) sounded great, as did the Greek omelet ($8.99). In the end, we ordered the biscuits and gravy ($7.59) (“Would you like eggs or hash browns with that? How about both? Of course”) and the stack of three (huge) pancakes ($5.99) with bacon ($3.89).

The two biscuits were cut in half and smothered in rich gravy, and the two eggs were perfectly over-easy. The hash browns, which are often neglected in restaurants, were the right mix of soft and crispy, and the bacon (four huge slices) also just right.

The pancakes were fluffy, but not too fluffy, my husband pointed out, and, despite the size of the dishes, we were somehow able to enjoy it all. All was exactly how we expected and should be.

As we were leaving I said, “I’ll need to come back and try the fries,” since you can trust a restaurant committed to making the classics right, and in the case of the Colonial Pantry, that includes kind and efficient service in a comfortable and homey environment.

Just right when you do not want to make breakfast at home yourself.

The Colonial Pantry is at 9627 Firdale Ave. in Firdale Village in Edmonds, and is open every day from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (7 a.m. on Saturday and Sundays). More information is available on Facebook (@Colonial-Pantry-Corp).

 

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