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Civic improvements: We need a mussel joint

Published on Thu, Jul 22, 2010 by John Owen

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In 1884 the local newspaper proclaimed the surrounding community "one of the pleasantest towns on Puget Sound.  It is comprised of two stores of general merchandise, one drug store, three hotels, two saloons, one blacksmith and wagon shop, courthouse, post office, schoolhouse and about 25 dwelling houses and a church of the Methodist denomination.

"While we don't put on any airs as some of the would-be towns on the sound, we can look back upon the past year with great complacency; while Seattle and other towns are heralding the marvelous growth of their places, I venture the assertion that there is not a town on the Sound that has improved as rapidly as ours."

That was the word in Coupeville in 1884 which also happened to be the year George Brackett platted the community of Edmonds.
In 1890 Edmonds was incorporated although rumor has it that Brackett included his dog and his bull into the census to reach the mandatory minimum population of 300.  

But that was then, this is now.  Edmonds' population now dwarfs the Whidbey Island community but as Wikipedia points out, "In the small town of Coupeville there are mostly elder people seeing as this island is a great tourist attraction and an even better retirement community.  Coupeville is home to many antique shops although it has an occasional ice cream parlor or candy store. "

Been there, done that, but Coupeville is minor league in confections when compared with Namas, adjacent to the Edmonds' fountain circle.  

But I won't deny that Coupeville deserves a prominent place on the culinary landscape.  My mouth begins to water when I approach the Captain Whidbey Inn and glance out at the sheds, floats and boats that make up the oldest and biggest mussel farm in the U.S.

Penn Cove mussels have consistently won taste-testing competitions in this country and abroad.  And the firm is headquartered in Coupeville.

You might say that the spiritual center of Coupeville is Toby's Tavern, a 70-year-old establishment where $12 will buy you a pound of steamed Penn Cove mussels with a side of garlic toast.

Like Chanterelle's restaurant in Edmonds, Toby's Tavern is located in a historic building that once housed the town mercantile.
You can find Penn Cove mussels in Edmonds’ eateries, usually on the appetizer menu.

I'd like to see 'em served by the steaming tub in an ancient tavern like Toby's, where the barmaids have muscles from carrying all those mussels.  

Engles' Pub has the perfect atmosphere.  All they need is a large sign out front reading, "MUSSELS TODAY." Every day.
Then we could look back at this year with great complacency and venture the assertion that there is not a town on the Sound that has improved as rapidly as ours.

Pass the garlic toast.
      

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